A champagne of great finesse, this Grand Cru from Cotes des Blancs is naturally 100% Chardonnay and expresses an engaging and appetizing collection of fruit and spice with even that engaging scent of rye -all from the old vines. Certain of their quality, Varnier-Fanniere has an adamant preference for stainless steel tanks so as not to obscure the purity and depth of the vines’ expression. Bright orchard fruit is forthcoming on the nose and it’s cheerful on the palate with chipper apples and acacia that then pull you into a rye spiced nuance that lifts up on the palate and lasts long into the finish. As appetizing as it is alluring, this makes the mind reel with food pairings -most salient to me as I drink this is smørrebrød; those irresistible open faced sandwiches of Copenhagen particularly one with smoked fish, red onions, fresh greens and herbs atop a buttered slice of rugbrød -ah, the power of an evocative champagne!
Wine review by Nicholas D. Livingston, October 2012
The following accounts have purchased this wine in the previous twelve months. Be sure to call ahead to confirm availability.