Barraud Macon Vergisson La Roche 2012

Domaine Barraud 2012 La Roche Mâcon-Vergisson, Bourgogne | 13% | 100% Chardonnay | This is one of those great Burgundies so often snapped up too soon by those in the know –so we squirreled away as much as we could. From organically grown vines planted over 30 years ago at well over 1,100 feet, in the shadow of La Roche de Vergisson in the Mâcon of southern Burgundy, this energetic expression of Chardonnay raised in white chalk is exceptional for its power and restraint. Waxy, round and bigger, more resinous and far more dynamic than most in the Mâcon, this actually comes from an east facing parcel beside the plots that go into Barraud’s La Roche Pouilly Fuissé –one of the greatest of the region.

Fermented in large 80 gallon barrels with 15% of which being new, this is an impressive with balsam and apricot notes greeting the nose –in a piney yet rich, tropical yet firm counterbalance that beguiles with a smoky minerality. On the palate juicy acids wash over every corner with enough richness and body to curl about and keep poised. Creamy and tangy the acids along with a grip from a considerable amount of dry extract is fulsome but not so potent and tugging that it would stand out at the table. Instead this calls for pork roast, roast poultry, tender duck prepared with star anise, a mushroom pie, or even a fattier fish.
Wine review by Nicholas Livingston, June 25, 2015 (Root)