The Wine Company

Wine

Gimonnet Brut 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs

Disgorged August 8th 2013, this non-vintage Blanc de Blancs made entirely of prized Chardonnay plots in the legendary slopes of the Côte des Blancs: Cramant Grand Cru, Chouilly Grand Cru, Oger Grand Cru, Aÿ Grand Cru, Mareuil sur Aÿ 1er Cru (chalk); Cuis 1er Cru (chalk and clay). A non-vintage blend of 77% 2011, 6% 2010, 12% 2009, 4% 2007 and 1% 2006, this marries not only Gimonnet’s various and uniquely expressive plots but the varieties of vintage to great effect –at once respecting the terroir in a broader sense, the method, and the mastery of winemaker. Such a fragrant Blanc de Blancs, one may think it verily breathes of brioche, chirping apples, carob, chalky talc and a wisp of toast. All these and more ring and echo across the palate with orchard fruit, lemon peel, and that liquor de champagne that reads equal parts perfume and that alluring fragrance of a freshly bathed body –part floral part inexplicable pheromone –for all its grace this is a sensual Champagne.
Wine review by Nicholas Livingston, July 9th, 2014 (Flower)

From Terry Theise’s latest Champagne catalogue: Permit me an anecdote. I was on my way to dinner at SPQR in San Francisco, and they have an all-Italian wine list. I wanted Champagne and figured they’d indulge me especially if I shared. So I wandered into D&M wines down the street, and found a bottle of Gimonnet NV in the cold box. Lucky me. When it was opened my companion and I were amazed. “This is the best bottle of Gimonnet NV I’ve ever had,” we agreed. We also agreed it was among the very best bottles of any Blanc de Blancs NV we’d ever had.

“Cuvée 151” Is based on 2011 (77%), with 2010 (6%) 2009 (12%) 2007 (4%) and 2006 (1%). It is barely above the level of “Extra Brut,” which shows a bracing integrity on his part, because he could have glommed onto that trendy designation but opted instead to be just above it because it was better for the wine. The salient aspect of this wine is, the reserve vintages are stored in Magnum not in tank, because it keeps them fresher. And, the “vintage” is actually the NV blend of that year, so we have in effect a chain-reaction of complexity; this wine could easily have the fruit of 25 growing seasons in it.

I tasted an 11/2013 disgorgement which should last us until very late this year. It was among the most attractive of the ’11-based cuvées. It has potential to turn into a classic NV Gimonnet.


---

Delicate apple aromas greet the nose with a rising perfume penetrating the whole olfactory. Lithe structure is bright and dry with an expert tension that’s taut and stimulating with a chalky mineral quality and a kiss lifted fruit. In a word: delighted. This is 100% Chardonnay from Cuis. It is 74% from 2007, 6% from 2006, 14% from 2005 and 6% 2004. Gimonnet is has 25 ha of vines in the Côte de Blancs which makes him one of our largest growers. His Grand Cru holdings are in Cramant, Chouilly and Oger for Chardonnay and he also has a little Pinot Noir in Aÿ (Grand Cru) and Mareuil-sur-Aÿ (1er Cru). His 1er Cru Chardonnay is all in Cuis, which some say gives more power than Cramant (Bollinger is the largest land owner in Cuis). Over 70% of Gimonnet’s plantings are vines over 30 years old, which is very rare in a region with the average age of vines being only 25 years. Gimonnet is always stainless fermentation and full malolactic. The dosage is 8 grams.
Wine review by Nicholas D. Livingston with notes from Terry Theise, February 2011

Expert Review

93 Burghound
"A wafting and distinctly cool nose featuring essence of white flowers and Meyer lemon slides gracefully into bright, clean and utterly delicious middle weight flavors that possess lovely depth and length on the markedly dry finish. This is dry but not aggressively so and I very much like the yeasty character that adds significant interest to the finale. For my taste this is drinking perfectly now though it could easily be held. Lovely and understated."
Wine review by Allen Meadows

92 Points International Wine Cellar
"Disgorged July 24, 2009; no malo and 8 grams dosage Pale green-tinged straw color. A highly perfumed bouquet displays white flowers, lime and lemongrass, along with a strong mineral overtone. Pure, sharply focused citrus flavors are impressively racy, with a refreshing note of lime zest on the back end. Very fine blanc de blancs with strong finishing cut and clarity. This would work really well with raw oysters." Wine review by Stephen Tanzer, December 2009

facebook Instagram Pinterest youtube
facebook instagram
Signup of email series

Popular Articles

Top