Darnaud Crozes Hermitage Mise en Bouche 2011

Emmanuel Darnaud is Crozes Hermitage to a T and yet there's nothing neither stodgy and stolid nor yesteryear about his touch; nay, he's a classicist that observes all the best traditions without letting old mistakes stand in the way of elevating Crozes Hermitage farther into the high estimation it deserves. Mis en Bouche is Crozes Hermitage according to younger vines expressing primary, more charming and chummy fruit.

Perhaps this is why Emmanuel calls it Put it in the mouth -it is neither pretentious nor basic; instead this is Crozes Hermitage as a young vintner dreams it: bold, forthwith, a little brash but with a charming candor that cannot but convey its familial resemblance to great other great Syrah of the Northern Rhone. Dark, smoky bacon, meaty blackberries and meat pan juices might otherwise convince one there is a roast finishing up next door. This could be a primeval club of Syrah that knocks you sideways but the palate is gentler, and rather chummy -almost teasing as though it knows the impression it gives when really it's a softy -despite its bloody juniper soaked venison on the finish. A wine for carnivore or those who miss meat but will not cross that line again.
Wine review by Nicholas Livingston, March 2013

Food Pairings

Winged beasties with dark meat like duck, goose, squab, and griffins. Hooved game. Roasted meats.