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Wine

Li Veli ASKOS Susumaniello 6/750 2017

Here’s a new one for you! And trust me, you want to know about it. Susumaniellio is an odd grape, one of those under the radar Italian varietals (one of like 3000) that rarely leaves its local province and town, much less the country.

Trying to avoid hyperbole, I’ll try to contain myself and simply say this is one of the more perfect wines I’ve had in a long time. Combine briary black raspberry galore with high toned goodness like pencil lead and whetstone in the aromas, along with a perfectly medium bodied approach and snappy acidity, as well as a touch of herbal essence in the form of thyme. My oh my this is good.

The basis for the name is probably contained in the synonym somarello, which means donkey, “a reference to the load this animal is able to bear, just like this vine variety.” (Robinson, Wine Grapes, p.1020). When harvested at high yields, the wines can be overtly tart but this particular one is a smooth as can be (along with a slight lift at the finish). Amazingly, one of its genetic parents has been discovered to be Garganega, the great grape used to make Soave Classico.

Could a better wine be found for the complex and finely crafted pizzas being made today? I think not. Add to that list of perfect pairings anything involving duck, chicken, beef, pork, lamb, or just about anything else… okay, I give up. It goes with everything. Period.
Wine review by Jason Kallsen, February 13th, 2015 (Leaf)

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