Vietti Tre Vigne Barbera d'Alba 2014
Vietti 2012 Tre Vigne Barbera d’Alba, Piedmont | 14% | Estate grown, this Tre Vigne Barbera unites three of Vietti’s densely planted vineyards (Monforte, Castiglione Falletto, and Castiglione Tinella) which means these 35 to 40 year old vines aren’t merely concentrated by their focusing age but for the tight quarters that ensures they plumb these slopes in search of nutrients and moisture. After fermentation, these unite further in cask, where they share the typical malolactic fermentation that softens malic in to lactic acids –lending mouthfeel and calming the texture to some extent. Then these age over the 14 months they spend in Slovenian oak casks, French barriques and steel tanks so as to bring a bit of the best from each method.
What a glorious nose –entirely Barbera, entirely Piedmont, entirely Vietti, and the best from each. The parfum is permeating and on that metaphor, the sillage is impressive in that this fragrance makes its floral, cordial cherry presence known and then lingers long after you put the glass down. And to breathe this wine is to taste it as these red cherries and crunchy red fruit carry on from the nose to the tongue with all those and more melding as a compote –so much richer than the Barbera of Asti and so much the softer but with a mandarin top note thrown into relief by a violet and peeled cedar bark accord all soundly supported by a base note of sweet wood rot –but those in a humid pine forest less sweet nutty and more resinous and evergreen. The tannins are certain but soft –as if sanded to the finest dust. Acidity is fresh and evokes the fresh red cherries and that sweet scent of marzipan which on a dry red is as beguiling as it is appetizing –always reaching that boyhood pleasure-center deep in my mind and memory.
In terms of vintage, the 2012 is lush and plush and exceedingly generous even right now –having reached our temperature controlled warehouse this very morning. Knowing how wines calm and give up all the more after two weeks rest, this will no doubt blow my mind next time I try it. Hats off to Vietti; this is marvelous.
Wine review by Nicholas Livingston, April 14, 2014 (Root)
Food Pairings
Antipasti, rich salads, grilled seasoned vegetables, hearty soups/stews, pastas or with breaded veal, pork, chicken with light sauces.
