Muga Prado Enea Gran Reserva Rioja 2010
80% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha, Mazuelo and Graciano
Some wine is a gift from nature and such reflect their provenance at the highest order. Drinking this is like being enveloped into a secret order of the rare few who are allowed to witness the entire power of Rioja. As Muga’s Gran Reserva, the Prado Enea is made from the last and most developed clusters at harvest time; these are perfectly ripened and this means broad, round and balanced wine. Prado Enea ferments up to twenty days according to the natural Riojan yeasts –making it all the more a product of place. Aged at least a year in large oak vats, followed by three more in oak casks, and then three more in bottle, this is only released once all its many facets reflect as a perfectly cut and polished gem –a craft lasting seven years!
No other Rioja expresses itself like this: bright plum skins tug at sweet low plum flesh, spicy top notes of fresh cinnamon contrast a rich base of leathern, crushed cloves. Cedar and cherries, pine boughs, red berries, a finish that lingers and texture so varied, this is stunningly good. Gran Reserva par excellence! None should pass on an opportunity at such wine as it is a bottled paradigm shift.
As a promise to friends: vegans please take note, this is fined with egg whites and although no residue remains, eggs played a role in the production of this unparalleled Rioja –as seen on the Muga website here
Wine review by Nicholas Livingston, January 2013
Expert Review
95 Wine Spectator (Robert Parker)
The 2005 Prado Enea Gran Reserva spends 36-months in oak, nine months in new oak after which it is racked into American oak that is “semi-new” (i.e. a new barrel that is “broken in” with a wine beforehand). It has an unashamedly opulent bouquet of primal, ripe, boysenberry, mulberry, dark chocolate and crushed violets that blossom with aeration. The palate is full-bodied with crisp acidity cutting through the pure blackberry and cassis fruit. It has wonderful focus and intensity, though the finish demonstrates convincing composure. This is an outstanding Gran Reserva whose silky texture will instantly win you over. Drink 2013-2030+
Bodegas Muga was a must during my afternoon visiting the triumvirate of classic Rioja producers located within spitting distance from each other in Haro. The name should need no introduction. It was founded by Aurora Cano and her husband Isaac in 1932, although the family were growers and did not commence winemaking themselves until the 1960s, when they relocated to the building in Barrio de la Estacion. Under Aurora’s son, Isaac Jnr, who joined us for the tasting, Muga fostered a reputation for high quality, classic Rioja wine sourced from an almost incalculable number of tiny parcels. During the 1990s they branched out to pursue what you might call “modern” Rioja with the inception of “Torre Muga” in 1991. This move may have piqued those that feared Muga was forsaking their classical roots, though those fears were unfounded and the bodega continues to fashion wines that embrace both styles. However, let us commence with their sparkling contribution to the Rioja landscape.
Food Pairings
Very versatile. The better cuts of lamb. Most any meat braised or stewed. Game birds and poultry, especially duck.