Pehu-Simonet Selection Brut Grand Cru, Montagne de Reims | Disgorged February 2011 | 12% | Champagne from the 2009 vintage with 30% of the previous year’s blend – the cepage is 60% Pinot Noir from David Pehu’s holdings in Verzenay and Verzy-Sillery and 40% Chardonnay exclusively from Verzenay. A billowing nose of membrillo quince paste, flint and steel, lemon curd and custard, greengage plum skins, chalky and an invigorating high hat, toe tapping lift to a voluminous Montagne de Reims whose rich character echoes on a fragrant finish.

Wine tasting by Nicholas Livingston, October 2013

Pehu-Simonet “Sélection” Brut NV

David Pehu, the 4th generation of his family to make grower Champagnes, produces all of 3,750 cases of bubbly each year (versus 2 million cases at Moet). Fortunately for us, a few cases make it to Minnesota. The “Sélection” is 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, all Grand Cru – mostly from the village of Verzenay on the Montagne de Reims. David’s wines are dry but lush and deep and satisfying – “generous, fine, and compelling”. (Terry Theise)

Any worlds of concern fall away while nosing this Champagne –similar to the moment when the accompanying symphony fades from audible focus as Rhadames Angelucci’s oboe rings out, revealing the orphic powers of that legendary musician along with the enveloping warmth of the high woodwinds when and only when the reeds are at the right lips. David Pehu is the gifted gift to Champagne in this case and it the brighter place for hosting his transcendent talent. 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay and 100% Grand Cru, this is a Champagne with momentum. All the Chardonnay is from Verzenay and the Pinot Noir is from Verzenay, Verzy and Sillery. The majority of the cuvée is from 2007 vintage (70%) and the balance is reserve wines. 10% of the total cuvée is fermented in 4-5 year-old oak and the dosage is 8 grams per liter. One might think knowing these specs would be enough to recreate this wine but that’s absolute folly –like claiming an oboe will sound the same from any other than Rhadames Angelucci. You must hear it for yourself to know the joys it brings as imagination and wishful thinking fall short no matter how colorful.

– Wine review by Nicholas D. Livingston, February 2011