SOMM SLAM 2019

4 COURSES | 8 SOMMELIERS | 8 WINES | 1 WINNER

Each year the city gathers at Monello for the annual SOMM SLAM to experience the city’s most talented sommeliers sharing their perspectives on food and wine pairing along with their personal passions, with insights as to how they curate their wine programs.

This is the first time SOMM SLAM has partnered with a distributor and because of this rare ability to plumb our vast portfolio at The Wine Company, which opened onto endless opportunities, this resulted in some of the most competitive voting with no round was decided by more than six votes and one round was as close as two votes -from a pool of 80 voters!

With Jason DeRusha hosting as MC and Monello’s Mike DeCamp and Nick Vasquez creating the delectable food menu, SOMM SLAM proved all the more entertaining for its judges: Stephanie March of MSP Magazine, Jason Kallsen of Twin Cities Wine Education, and the great Nicolas Giraud of the Minikahda Club. Ribbing one another and placing side bets on their own blind tastings, they were a riot not least for Nico continually nailing blind tastings.

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Contestants this year included Katy Dimick of Hola Arepa, Kathryne Cramer of Borough, Tristan Pitre of Demi, Karina Roe of France 44, Amy Waller of The Bachelor Farmer, Scarlett Carrasco Polanco of Grand Café, Ian Lowther of Red Rabbit, and Alex White of Monello.

IMG_0429Kicking off with a Sherry Punch competition, the geniuses at Travail teamed up against those at Jester Concepts to win the crowd with their interpretation of the Sherry Punch, a Lustau riff on this classic cocktail on this occasion as a Sherry punch. Both danced on the palate and were absolute works of art but it was Jester’s Sherry Punch that expressed more of the Sherry core ingredient and for this they won out in the end.

_04A0419Dinner followed as each dish was met by two wines chosen with the deliberate assiduity unique to our best sommeliers whose palate histories and tasting experience circles the globe and makes our dining scene the award winning marvel we are proud to support by dining out every chance we get. Wines were served blind and the guest and judge votes were tallied after each round.

_04A0502The first course was red snapper, salsa verde, sweety drop peppers, pickled ramps posing a spectrum of challenges to the sommeliers involved. Monello’s Alex White chose the Vecchia Modena Lambrusco by Cleto Chiarli to complement the dish anbd this went beautifully and yet Karina Roe of France 44 had a dynamic trick up her sleeve and the biodynamic Spiegel Erste Lage by Bernhardt Ott with all its mineral verve and classic Grüner Veltliner pepperiness proved the power of the terroir of Austria’s Wagram to win the course pairing.

_04A0673Charred romaine heart, egg yolk pudding, focaccia, and a neonata vinaigrette made the second course. Kathryne Cramer of Borough knocked it out of the park with Peloro Bianco Terre Siciliane by Le Casematte. The Grillo//Carricante blend combined lively citrus with floral scents of chamomile…although it was Grand Café’s Scarlett Carrasco Polanco that won the round with Vietti’s Roero Arneis from 25 year old vines for its floral, citrus, and melon aromas with hints of almond.

_04A0690Round III took the crowd by storm as the third course was cecemareti, arugula, Italian XO, and a fried chicken that caused quite the stir across the dining room with wishes the Monello menu might someday include fried chicken -a dish they never serve in the dining room. Ian Lowther kicked off the wine sets with the exceptional Riesling Sekt Brut by Maximin Grünhaus and this single vineyard, traditional method sparkling wine from this storied Ruwer estate was exceptional -perhaps because the dosage is none other than Herrenberg Auslese. Hola Arepa’s Katy Dimick had a strong parry/riposte however and won the third course pairing thanks to a masterful match to Heidi Schröck’s Furmint from Austria’s Burgenland fermented with natural yeasts in Acacia casks.

_04A1001Ribeye, red pesto, and zucchini followed as the fourth and final course but there was a twist to this challenge as the zucchini was not only in sliced form but also as a zucchini bread involving spicy ginger which made for a real wine pairing challenge. Amy Waller of The Bachelor Farmer served forth the resplendent La Massa Toscana from La Massa//Giorgio Primo -a glorious Super Tuscan of Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Alicante Bouchet aged in French oak. A dream of rich balance and structure but Tristan Pitre of Demi won this match with help from Rancia Riserva Chianti Classico by Felsina. Made from 100% Sangiovese planted nigh 40 years ago, Rancia is aged 18-20 months in French oak and awash in wild berry fruit, fragrant spices, floral charms and a mineral impression to keep it all aloft.

_04A1043At the end of Round IV, happily sated and excited by all the wine and food, one vote remained: the judges and the crowd had to choose the ultimate sommelier whose wine and food pairing was most complementary. While the whole night was a succession of one compelling pairing after another, the most memorable was Katy Dimick’s not least for how brave it was to put up an Austrian Furmint against so many of the most renowned terroirs but above all that it was not pummeled by the dish; the fried chicken beside it seemed light, nimble, and crisp, and the rich maritime aromas and flavors of the Italian XO sauce simply danced with the wine. In the end all competitors and judges wished each other well, raised a few more glasses of wine and then carried on over cocktails at Constantine -a memorable night of food and wine pairing to be sure!

_04A0125Katy won the day and yet it truly was a win for everyone in attendance to share such a collaborative event surrounding some unbelievably talented people who clearly enjoyed gathering together under one roof. To gather so many together, working toward a common goal, gave each a chance to share their passion with others who love wine as they do and to spark new insights and understandings for everyone present. It was a high time and yet another reason we were so proud to partner with Monello to help bring this altogether. Congratulations to all those immediately involved and to all of us who benefit by the gifted, local food and wine scene that we are so lucky to have on hand every night of the week. Our advice? Book a table, plumb the wine list, and consult the somm to broaden your horizons.

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Talking Grower Champagne at WCCO

We have been invited to the studios of WCCO Television to discuss the world of Grower Champagnes with their superstar reporter Jason DeRusha. We will be talking about three wines in particular to profile different parts of the Grower Champagne movement.

This segment will air Saturday morning, December 29th, during the 8:00 hour.

To help follow up on their report, here are more details on the wines presented (and at the far end of the post a list of where to purchase these gems).

Marc Hebrart “Cuvee de Reserve” Brut n/v
When you hear Hebrart owns 38 acres of land, a Minnesotan is inclined to imagine standing at the corner of a field, watching Jean-Paul Hebrart open his arms wide and proclaim “Here are my 38 acres!” But the truth is far more complicated: he owns 38 acres of land across 68 different parcels. So imagine, if you will, the complexities involved in harvest of those 68 parcels, many of which are planted to multiple varietals. This is part of the magic of the grower-producers: they are working their own land instead of waiting for the truck to arrive with the goods (in Champagne it is legal, and all too common, to purchase finished sparkling wine en masse and blend into a selection … travel in Champagne is frequently interrupted by tanker trucks whaling down the freeways).

The main characteristic of Hebrart Brut, besides its price (often the same price or even a touch less expensive than the Yellow Label That Shall Not Be Named), is the combination of absolute top quality Premier Cru Pinot Noir from Vallee de la Marne with absolute top quality Grand Cru Chardonnay from the Cotes de Blanc. To combine these stunning parcels into a bottling of this price is crazy … and lucky for the consumer!

Rene Geoffroy Rose’ de Saignee n/v
Jean-Baptise Geoffroy is perfectionist in the most perfect and precise sense of that word, which is a great trait to have in the complicated world of Champagne. This level of perfection almost forces him to be doing his own thing, for he would be over-bearing in his demands if working for somebody else. An example: when the grapes are harvested and brought in for pressing, the first pressing is of the highest quality. While most Champagne houses continue the first pressing until 2000 liters are released, Geoffroy limits it to 1800. This may not sound like much, but in the end he’s reducing the amount of the first press by a full 10% just to keep to his own high standards. Economically, it makes zero sense, for most consumers wouldn’t notice the ever so slight shift in the bottle. But that’s the beauty of grower-producers: they do what they want, not what a spreadsheet tells them to.

The color of this wine is dynamic: a full frontal blast of cranberry hued goodness. It’s a Saignee, which is French for ‘the bleeding’. Rather than add still (non-bubbly) Pinot Noir and Pinot Munier to the Champagne to achieve the pinkness, they make this from a gentle pressing (i.e. “Bleeding”) of the red grapes at the time of crush. It’s a painstakingly difficult process, but one Jean-Baptise is up for.

Gimonnet Special Club 2004
Three things of note for this wine: The producer and his love of Chardonnay, the quality, and the Special Club designation.

While Pinot Noir and Pinot Munier might constitute the bass and rhythm of the region, Chardonnay plays the special role of the lead singer, the Bono or Mick, the frontrunner, the one that often defines who you are as a producer. Why? It’s high toned, it’s lovely, it’s precise, it’s bright, and it perfectly delivers all that goodness you want in a glass of Champagne. And there are few people in the land more in love with this varietal than Didier Gimonnet. He owns some of the oldest parcels in the region (and Champagne is notorious for young vines), averaging 40 years and at times upwards of 100 years old … unheard of anywhere. He cares for these vines as his children, and the loving care translates into wines so sublime they defy description (even for his ‘entry level’ Premier Cru Blanc de Blanc).

The quality of this wine is simple to define: it’s his best wine, period. There is no ‘higher rung’ on the ladder. There is no super-uber-reserve under the table. This is the gold standard for Gimonnet and the 2004 vintage. But it gets better than that….

This is a Special Club. Here is the skinny on this most exclusive of groups. Twenty six members. All small grower-producers. They wanted to form a group to help counter the bigness of the big houses, while offering something truly special to the wine world. The members gather every year to taste the best of the best vintages from the members, and decide as a group who is allowed to release their wines as a Special Club (and use the Special Club bottle). This tasting is performed blind, and not all wines make it through (embarrassingly, producers have sometimes rejected their own wine when presented in this peer format). The wines that do make it through indicate a small production of truly monumental wine: best wine, from best vintages, from the top small producers, chosen by their peers. It’s a special club indeed.

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Where to find the wines

Following is a list of accounts that have purchased these wines in the previous twelve months. Please call ahead to assure availability. Accounts are listed alphabetically by city.

Herbrart Brut Cuvee de Reserve Brut n/v

Cheers - Bloomington
Bloomington
952-941-0998

Mgm - West Bloomington
Bloomington
952-888-9421

Wine Republic
Excelsior
952-470-2220

Liquor Barn
Long Lake
952-473-1817

Mcdonald Liquor Store
Minneapolis
612-721-6686

Henry & Son
Minneapolis
612-200-9517

Lake Wine & Cheese
Minneapolis
612-242-0073

Stinson Wine, Beer & Spirits
Minneapolis
612-789-0678

Haute Dish
Minneapolis
612-338-8484

Cave Vin
Minneapolis
612-922-0100

Hennepin-lake Liquors
Minneapolis
612-825-4411

Dakota Jazz Club & Restaurant
Minneapolis
612-332-1010

France 44
Minneapolis
612-925-3252

Falls Liquor
Minneapolis
612-729-5498

North Loop Wine & Spirits
Minneapolis
612-338-5393

South Lyndale Liquor
Minneapolis
612-827-5811

Ken And Norm's Liquors
Minneapolis
612-822-0030

Zipp's
Minneapolis
612-333-8686

Closed - Spoonriver
Minneapolis
612-436-2236

The Wine Shop
Minnetonka
952-988-9463

Terza
Rochester
507-413-4033

First Grand Liquors
Saint Paul
651-227-7039

Solo Vino
Saint Paul
651-602-9515

Mchugh, Mike
Saint Paul


The Commodore
Saint Paul
651-330-5999

Jordan Berndt
Saint Paul


Forepaugh's
Saint Paul
651-224-5606

Midway Liquor Store
Saint Paul
651-644-7900

Matt Hines
Saint Paul


Toasted Wine+spirits+ales
Saint Paul
651-246-8054

Thomas Liquor
Saint Paul
651-699-1860

Scott's Liquor
Saint Paul
651-690-4434

The Salt Cellar
St Paul
651-219-4013

West Side Liquor - Waite Park
Waite Park
320-253-9511

Wayzata Wines & Spirits
Wayzata
952-473-7191

Cotroneo's Vino & Birra
White Bear Lake
651-429-7551

 

Geoffroy Rose de Saignee n/v

Tournament Liquor - Blaine
Blaine
763-786-4992

The Kenwood - New Ownership
Minneapolis
612-377-3695

Alma Restaurant
Minneapolis
612-379-4909

Henry & Son
Minneapolis
612-200-9517

France 44
Minneapolis
612-925-3252

Cafe Barbette
Minneapolis
612-827-5710

Cork & Barrel Wine & Spirits
Oakdale
651-739-0804

Terza
Rochester
507-413-4033

Nordstrom, Mark
Saint Paul


Thomas Liquor
Saint Paul
651-699-1860

Heartland
Saint Paul


Solo Vino
Saint Paul
651-602-9515

 

Gimonnet Special Club 2004

New Scenic Cafe
Duluth
218-525-6274

Sunfish Cellars
Lilydale
651-552-5955

The Wine Market
Mendota Heights
651-452-9463

Tilia
Minneapolis
612-618-3069

Lake Wine & Cheese
Minneapolis
612-242-0073

France 44
Minneapolis
612-925-3252

The Wine Shop
Minnetonka
952-988-9463

Angela Kallsen
Saint Paul


Mchugh, Mike
Saint Paul


Thomas Liquor
Saint Paul
651-699-1860

Colbeck
Saint Paul
651-487-1212

Wil Bailey
Saint Paul


Top Ten Liquors - Woodbury
Woodbury
651-501-1199